JOSH WHARTON
I learned to climb as an impressionable teenager in a very
traditional way. Unlike many of today's young climbers I never
climbed in a gym, and spent most of my early years toproping and
wobbling my way up easy trad climbs in New England. When I moved to
Boulder, Colorado in 1997 I fell in love with climbing in earnest
and have been hooked ever since.
Although I love all aspects of the sport, alpine climbing has
been my primary passion. I'm most proud of the climbs that required
a special effort from me and my partners; be it a willingness to
take big risks, train hard, or make some major sacrifice in our
lives. There are many climbs that have forged strong memories over
the years, particularly those with friends that are now gone, but
some of the climbs that stand out for me are:
The first ascent of The Flame in Pakistan with Brian
McMahon; a very committing climb given our collective experience
and skill level at the time. We completed the climb in alpine
style, after 40 stormy days alone on the Trango Glacier during the
post-9/11 summer of 2002.
The first ascent of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango
Tower with Kelly Cordes. 48 hours without water, and some difficult
climbing at 20,000 feet, opened my mind to how far things could be
pushed.
Winning the Ouray Ice Festival Mixed Climbing Competition in
2009, 2010, and 2011. Especially in 2011, as I had broken my back
and arms just six months prior to the event. Participating in Ouray
has pushed me to learn a new aspect of the sport, and taught me how
to train hard.
In the future I hope to chase the climbing dreams that inspire
me, be them a 10 foot boulder problem or a 10,000 foot alpine face,
and to continue to live a rewarding and happy life.
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